An Italian Easter

Italy East10 049 1024x768 An Italian Easter

We have been away just seven days, but it seems much longer; so many people met, such wonderful things seen.  The pretext was my assisting at St Mark's Florence, the Anglican Chaplaincy.  It was busy.  We arrived late on Wednesday, and from Thursday to Monday inclusive I preached five times, confirmed two candidates at the Vigil Mass of Easter, went to the Church of S Peter in Siena for their Mass (on Easter Monday) and flew home today.

Italy East10 014 768x1024 An Italian EasterThere were so many beautiful things to see; amazing great Altars of Repose (we managed to see six after the evening Mass & footwashing) decked with more Azaleas than you can imagine; wonderful paintings – especially yesterday the Frescos in the Duomo in San Gimigniano – the recently installed St Mark above the door of the English Church, a very lively sculpture by Jason, an American artist who lives and works and teaches in Florence.  The marble for his statue was from the same quarry which provided the stone for Michaelangelo's David.  But of all the images, the most moving for me was in one of the Dominican Cells in San Marco.

Italy East10 025 1024x768 An Italian EasterFra Angelico supplied all the brethren with an image, besides painting a lovely Annunciation at the head of the entrance stairs, and various other works throughout the monastery.  The one that caught my attention above all others was a 'Noli me tangere', the meeting of Jesus and Mary in the garden.  He holds out a hand to her, telling her not to touch him.  To show why she thought he was the gardener, he has over his shoulder a mattock, a heavy digging tool.

Now why would the Lord have such an implement?  There are other images which gave me the clue.  They show the day before the appearance to Mary, where Jesus is leading out the prisoners from the underworld.  He takes Adam by the hand, and the figures from the ancient world follow him.  But he is standing on a fallen door; and crushed beneath the door the writhing figure of a demon.

Italy East10 056 768x1024 An Italian Easter'My Father works until now, and I work' said Jesus.  His work at Easter was not complete until he had harrowed hell;  the mattock, I think, must be the tool he took to accomplish the task, break down the doors and dig into hell itself.  So at least it seemed to me, and this thought dominated the celebration this year.  I hope I may find a copy of that image to post for you; meanwhile you will have to make do with some of the other pictures I took throughout our visit.

There was a marvellous range of people in church over the Triduum; many from the States, who had decided to find this rather than the Episcopal chapel elsewhere in the town.  They were wise.  St Mark's is a most lovely church, full of pieces by Bodley and other great Gothic Revival artists, all on the lower floors of a Palazzo in Via Maggio, the road which leads to the Trinity Bridge and so into the heart of Florence from the Left Bank.  The priest there is hugely energetic and effective (especially in raising money for the Church) and Fr Lawrence and his wife Jacqui are wonderful hosts.  They truly gave us an Easter to remember.

You can find a representation of the Mary Magdalen image here.

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A Foretaste of Heaven?

In two weeks' time – can it really be so soon – Jane and I are off to Florence.  I am so glad it has an English name as well as its proper Italian one, 'Firenze'.  Such Anglicisation shows we have taken a place to our hearts; like Rome for 'Roma' and Leghorn for 'Livorno'.  Other nations do a similar courtesy to us; so the French call London 'Londres', the Italians 'Londra'.  Which is perhaps why I get upset when perfectly good English variants are replaced.  We did so well with Peking; I am sure Beijing is only an approximation of what the Chinese call it, and so too with Mumbai for beloved Bombay and so on.  Yet increasingly overseas countries are insisting that we use their form of the name.  Well of course we do, out of courtesy.  But they fail to see that by this insistence they are distancing themselves from their friends.  Shame.

All this, of course, is entirely beside the point.  What matters is that we are to spend the Triduum and Easter itself in Firenze, or Florence, courtesy of our friends Fr Lawrence (or Lorenzo) and Jackie MacLean.  He is the Anglican chaplain there.  I was there at his invitation three years ago, so once again hope triumphs over experience.  But it is a wonderful opportunity for me.

I thought I could post a few pictures from our previous visit, but my computer is being difficult, so instead I suggest you go to their web site and look at the wonderful restoration which has been going on recently.  In particular they have commissioned a fine marble statue of St Mark (San Marco) to stand over the entrance to the Palazzo which houses the church.  It is by an American sculptor who teaches in Italy — what chuzpah, in the land of Michelangelo!

St Mark's is on the Via Maggio, the road which leads to the Trinity Bridge — the next one downstream from the Ponte Vecchio.  If you ever go to Florence, be sure not to miss St Mark's.  I do not know another church like it.

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